| Type | What you need to know |
|---|---|
| Retinoid | This is actually terminology used to describe and encompass all vitamin A derivatives, including both prescription (like tretinoin) and over-the-counter (like retinol) products. In recent years, this term has also come to include plant-based retinols such as bakuchiol. |
| Retinol | This is the least potent, over-the-counter form of vitamin A. It is converted to retinoic acid (like tretinoin) in the skin but does so at a slower rate, making it gentler and less likely to cause irritation. However, it acts on the superficial layers of the skin, so aside from being gentler, results take a bit longer to achieve. Retinol is effective for improving skin tone and texture, reducing signs of ageing, and treating mild acne. |
| Retinal | Also called retinaldehyde, retinal sits somewhere in-between retinols and tretinoins. They are converted to retinoic acid in the skin but are generally considered to be less irritating than tretinoin, while being more effective than retinol. Retinaldehydes can help improve the appearance of the skin by promoting cell turnover and enhancing collagen production. |
| Tretinoin | This is a prescription-strength retinoic acid and is the most potent of all topical retinoic acids. It is commonly used to treat acne, reduce fine lines, and improve skin texture. Tretinoin works by accelerating cell turnover and encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells. It also has the most potential for skin irritation and dermatitis, and should be used under a doctor’s or prescriber’s close supervision. |
What percentage of retinol serum is best?
“The best percentage of retinol cream depends on your skin and what percentage it can comfortably tolerate,” says aesthetician Dija Ayodele. “Contrary to popular belief, flakiness and dryness don’t need to be symptoms of retinol use. When it comes to over-the-counter retinol serums, percentages of 0.01 per cent or greater have been shown to be effective, with 0.01 per cent a strength best used by those who are new to retinol. (Don’t jump in at the deep end, you and your skin will regret it –start slow and build up use.) Meanwhile, 1 per cent retinol is best used by those whose skin has become accustomed to the ingredient.”
What retinol do dermatologists recommend?
Dermatologists often recommend medical-grade retinol products whose efficacy has been proven with robust clinical testing. While these are usually prescription only – and designed to be used under the supervision of a physician – they are a safe and effective way to ensure a retinoid gets you the desired results. “I’m a fan of Obagi Medical Tretinoin because even at low doses, it is very effective,” says Dr Zunaid Alli, who also recommends ZO Obagi Retinol – “it’s my go-to for retinol beginners.”
Obagi 1% Retinol Cream
ZO Skin Health 1% Retinol Skin Brightener
In terms of over-the-counter retinol creams, Adapalene (also known as Differin) is often prescribed for acne as it accelerates cell turnover, helping to decongest the pores. When we quizzed skin experts on their skincare routines, several revealed that cosmeceutical brands were home to the retinols they actually use and trust. Among facialists, dermatologists and doctors, products from Medik8, Skinceuticals, and Obagi’s home line were recommended the most. If you’re searching for an effective retinol, these brands are a great port of call for formulas that come expert-approved.
Can I use retinol every day?
“You can work up to using retinol every day. Again, it depends on the strength of the vitamin A, regardless of the variant. There are some brands that will say their product is gentle enough to be used every day from the onset, but it is ultimately up to the strength and the integrity of your skin at the time.
“Start off including retinol in your routine twice a week – I always advise a Wednesday and a Sunday, just to allow skin enough rest time in between. Retinol can compound in the skin, so if you were to apply it every day, you might find your skin is okay on day three, only to have a lot of irritation on day four. So space your usage out – apply twice a week in the first few weeks, then three times a week, then four, and so on.”
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How much retinol should you use?
“The best amount of retinol to use depends on the version of retinol you are using, as there are many variants with different strengths. Always defer to the practitioner that’s providing it to you,” Ayodele advises. “If in doubt, a pea-sized amount of retinol is just fine. It is always better to use a smaller amount than a larger dose – less is always more with retinol.”
What age should you start using retinol?
“You should consider using it from the age of 25, as collagen starts to decline and deplete around this age. If you are using prescribed retinol for a skin condition like acne however, there is usually no age bracket – this is at the discretion of your doctor or dermatologist – though many of us avoid giving retinol products to those who are very young.”
What ingredients should you not use retinol with?
“There isn’t anything you shouldn’t use retinol with. Anything you use alongside retinol and vitamin A is very much dependent on your skin’s integrity and health.” says Ayodele. “My personal preference is to use retinol on its own at night after cleansing my skin. I cleanse with an alpha hydroxy acid-based cleanser. I then go ahead and use things like glycolic acid, vitamin E, lactic acid and hyaluronic acid (not all at once). If you are on prescribed medication, you may want to avoid alpha hydroxy acids and opt for milder polyhydroxy acid, such as gluconolactone or lactobionic acid. Dermatologists should ideally give their clients an appropriate skincare routine to follow.
