#SkinSchool: Everything you should know about niacinamide in skincare (2024)

It might not be as universally adored as vitamin C or as regularly discussed as retinol, but niacinamide has quietly made its way into the skincare routines of the most in-the-know, and now there's likely a niacinamide serum in your stash, whether you know it or not. Why? Its appeal is multifaceted: this smart molecule offers several different benefits to stressed-out skin, from brightening pigmentation to controlling sebum production. And it's this versatility that has made niacinamide the go-to ingredient for all manner of skincare products.

Here, we reveal everything you need to know about niacinamide, from the things it can do in skincare (and the things it can’t), to the best ways to reap its benefits.

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that can be taken as a dietary supplement or applied topically via a face serum, cream or treatment. An effective anti-inflammatory, it's generally known for its soothing and calming properties – but when formulated well in products, its benefits can be much more impressive than that.

How does niacinamide work on skin?

According to consultant dermatologist at Self London and author of the The Skincare Bible, Dr. Anjali Mahto, niacinamide works in many ways. Firstly, it can play a pivotal role in strengthening the skin barrier as it “reduces water loss from the epidermis and increases lipids (also known as ceramides) and proteins found in the skin barrier layer”. So, using a niacinamide serum regularly could increase your skin's ability to defend itself from pollution particles and irritants.

But perhaps more interesting is the way that regular use of niacinamide skincare can lead to balanced sebum production, and therefore fewer breakouts. “Niacinamide reduces sebum or oil production in the skin, which may indirectly help with the appearance of overly enlarged pores. It can also be helpful in mild acne,” adds Dr. Mahto.

Finally, niacinamide may brighten acne scars in certain skin types, as “studies show it reduces the appearance of hyperpigmented spots by acting on the steps leading to melanin or pigment production,” adds Dr. Mahto.

How should you use a niacinamide serum?

Niacinamide is generally well-tolerated by all skin types, causing minimal irritation. It can, of course, be found in varying degrees of concentration in the wealth of products available today. “Ideally, look for products that contain at least five per cent niacinamide for best results and ensure that it features highly (in the top five) on the ingredients list,” says Dr. Mahto.

Below, see the Bazaar verdict on the best niacinamide serums – plus a couple of impressive creams and masks – for fading pigmentation, protecting from pollution, and balancing congested skin.

The best niacinamide serums and treatments to try now:

La Roche Posay's latest innovation is a pigmentation serum that works harder than most. Combining 10 per cent niacinamide with a new, trademarked molecule, Mela B3, it sets to work blocking melanin before it develops into visible pigment, rather than simply correcting it once the damage has been done.

Designed especially for challenged, reactive skin, this watery serum contains four per cent niacinamide to reduce inflammation alongside probiotics to boost the skin barrier. It's free from alcohol, fragrance and silicones, and feels instantly cooling on irritated, acneic and rosacea-prone complexions.

This advanced niacinamide serum from the ever-efficacious Paula's Choice offers a higher-than-most dose of niacinamide, yet is carefully formulated so any skin type can benefit from it without the risk of irritation. Trust it to clarify congested pores, brighten skin and balance oil production, all while fortifying your all-important skin barrier.

A light and milky serum, this one is ideal for calming down inflamed blemishes without drying out the skin. It contains a high 10 per cent concentration of niacinamide, as well as bacteria-reducing zinc, hydrating hyaluronic acid, and brightening peptides.

Here's another pigmentation serum we recommend to those hoping to brighten discolouration, be it sun spots, post-acne marks or melasma. Powerful tone-unifying agent tranexamic acid is combined with exfoliating sulfonic acid and niacinamide to even out skin swiftly. Use it as a spot treatment or apply all-over.

Joonbyrd probably isn't quite what you'd expect from a dermatologist-owned brand: but Dr. Alexis Granite isn't your usual skin doctor. Indulgently scented and beautifully packaged, this active-led body treatment combines a gourmand fragrance and luxurious texture with ingredients that do really good things for your skin: think niacinamide, brightening lutein and calming ashwagandha.

Trust 111 Skin to develop a face SPF that does more than simply protect your skin. This anticipated addition to the brand's cult Repair collection contains niacinamide to control pores and sebum production and glutathione to energise the skin cells' reparative action.

Niacinamide is a great ingredient to use on the scalp, too, as it has the potential to help hydrate, rebalance oil production and – in turn – restore volume at the roots of the hair. This smart formulation from Grow Gorgeous also harnesses a rebalancing prebiotic, to further promote a healthy environment for hair growth.